Thursday, September 8, 2016

Walking Around Matunga


Ganpati Bappa Morya

Varkra Tund Mahakay , Surya Koti Samaprabha
Nirvighna Kurme Devo , Sarva Karyashu Sarvada

This  shloka invokes the blessing from Lord Ganesha before start of any new project . It prays to the elephant headed God of Art and Knowledge to drive away all the obstacles  (Vighnas)  and bless the requester with success in his work.

At start of this week every body will become busy in welcoming the Vighnaharta , the God of 18 Vidya and 64 kala’s the lovable Ganesha into their homes and in buildings at the Sarvajanik Mandals. Here he will stay with us for the next 10 days from Chaturthi to Anant Chaturdashi . Bringing along with him happiness and a mood of festivity and with a promise to ease the stress and burdens of his lakhs and lakhs of devotees. He is the embodiment of art , culture and peace. Just looking into the eyes of his Murthy will melt away your sorrow and and bring around a sense of hope and happiness.

Matunga being close to the culturally vibrant areas of Lalbaug , Parel and Shivaji Park and pre dominantly a Maharashtrian enlave , the Ganesh festival is celebrated in great pomp . This place has close to 10 -15 sarvajanik mandals dating to back pre independence years with a rich historya and tradition of 50 – 75 years . Take the example of  2 of the richest Ganesh Mandals , the GSB Ganesh Mandal at Wadala celebrating 75 years of incorporation and GSB Gaesh mandal at King Circle celebrating this festival for last 62 years . Both these are said to be Iccha Purti Ganesha’s , where if you make a wish with you pure heart the Lord will bless youa and make it come true. I have personally experienced the same on may occasions over the years. Both these Mandals have their unique style of celebration. The King Circle GSB Ganesh Mandal celebrates the Ganesh festival for 5 days on the SNDT grounds on the RA Kidwai Road with a huge pandal and an equally huge Ganesh Murti. The Ganesha idol is decorated with real Gold ornaments like the glittering and bejeweled crown , Gold necklaces , palm and feet covers made of gold and golden kaddas for hands and feet. The nearly 20ft idol sits on the stage in great style bestowing all those whom come with his blessings. The area in front of the idol is demarketed for Gana hom (havan) and another are is designated for Tula bhar ( a custom of offering coconuts equal to once weight to the Lord Ganesh).

For all 5 days there is a special Prasad Lunch free to all the devotee who visit the pandal. Close to 4-5 Lakh devotees take this prasadam over the period of the 5 days. At a time nearly 100 people can eat in one sitting . The food is prepared the kitchen set up right behind the Mandap and close to 50 -60 cooks prepare the special menu . Then there are another 50-100 sevadaars at any given time inside the pandal to help organize this festival and make sure the festival passes without any untoward incidents. I personally recommend to try the special lunch atleast once , you will come back again again every year like I do. The menu is simple mix of GSB traditional items like Udit Methi (sweet and tangy curry made from coconut spiced with udit and fenugreek seeds) Tendli upkari ( smashed and fried tendli vegetable) , Sar (Rasam) , Kachi Kela Bajji (Raw Banana mixed in Chick pea batter and crispily fried) , fresh mango pickle or mixed vegetable pickle, fried papadam, Steamed rice and Dali Toy (yellow dal) . For sweet there is the Madgane paysam( sweet made of channa dal and coconut milk ) flavoured with elaichi and jai phal and soft bundi ladoo. All this is served on a banana leaf the most eco friendly plate you can use.The sevadars keep coming with refills and urge you to take second or third helpings . Sitting there cross legged on the floor makes you content and you may end up eating more than you can imagine and your routine appetite. The food is simple but really tasty. Do try it atleast once…

Same is the case at the Wadala GSB Ganesh Mandal . here the Lord is hosted for 10 days with equal apolomb . This Ganesh is said to be richest Ganesh Mandal outdoing even the famous Lalbaugcha Raja the 10 day festival is insured for close to 260 Crores. The jewelry on the Lord Ganesha’s murthi itself is valued at more than 22 Crores. But this mandal still believes in the old values with traditional functions like Shloka patthan , traditional dance performance and late evening bhajjans by local and community groups performing very day. There is never a rush and the chaos associated while visiting the pandal which is open close to mid night. You can peaceful stand in the que , reach the lords feet , soak  in the serene atmosphere and pray at the Lords feet and take his blessings in a calm manner.

The Sarvajanik Mandal next to our building in Aggarwal Nagar even hosted a mini film festival. Screening the famous Amitabh Bachan starers like Namak Halal ( with dialogs as funny as “I can talk English I can walk English”) , Shaan (made famous by the baldy villain Shaakal  , Coolie ( Sari Duniyaan ka boj hum uthate hain a tribute to the porters of Mumbai) , Deewar ( With the famous lines “Mere paas bungla hai gadi hai paise hain , tere pas kya hain and Shashi Kapoor desimating him with a counter “ Mer Paas Maa hain” )and the epic Sholay with the characters of Surma Bhopali ,  Angrezo ke zamane ke Jailer , Thakur , Jai ,Veeru and the notorious Gabbar all etched in our minds. We would sit on the steps on the central garden on news paper spread to protect our clothes and enjoy the movies of the large white screen and dialogues and song blaring from huge speakers.

During our childhood we used to roam around visiting the numerous Ganesh Pandals in the vicinity and enjoying the festival and having a gala time.The tradition is continued with me and my wife taking our kids Netra & Bhatki and visiting all these pandal and enjoying the decorations of each mandals.

You have the Vidyarthyancha Raja (Students Ganesha) at the Ruia Naka with decorations based on current topics and news. Visited by Marathi television and movie celebraties . Walking further you arrive at the tallest Ganapati Murti in the Brijwasi Ganesh Mandal with decorations of water fountains and cutains.The murthi close to 15 ft with the Ganesh idol in traditional yellow pithambar. Moving ahead you come to the Matunga Market Ganpati Mandal earlier patronized by the erstwhile gangster Vardharajan Mudaliar on whose life was made the famous Tamil Movie “Nayakan” with Vardha bhai role espouced by vetran character actor Kamal Hasan and directed by talented and award winning director Mani Ratnam . Till he was alive Vardha bhai used to lavishly celebrate the Ganesh festival tasking over the entire space in front of the Matunga Railway Station. Spending  heavily on the theme based decorations and lighting . Though over the years the celebrations have toned down after passing away of the DON . The madal celebrates the festival with apolomb and the devotee still throng to take the blessings of Lord Ganesh and the idol set in traditional south Indian form.

Walk a little further and you come to the Phulwalon ka Ganpati or the Ganesha of the flower sellers in Matunga Flower market. The Pandal here is decked with fresh flowers in vibrant colors from deep chrome to sunshine yellow to deep blues and rich reds. Using flowers like marigold , jasmine , orchids and roses. For ten days the flowers are changed every day and the decorations are the talk of all Matunga.

Next of the list is the Pramanik Ganapati Mandal decked up in Silver jewelary and decorations based on puranik katha’s or religious themes. Walking ahead you land up at the Tejukaya Ganesh Mandal. Here the decorations are theme based  like the hawa mahal from Rajasthan or the miniature Meenaxi Temple or other of palaces and traditional temples. The artisans take months to complete the pandal and bring these exotic places right here in Matunga. This Ganesh Mandal is also famnus for lip smacking and finger licking food stalls righ out side. You can choose from the spicy tangy Butter Pav Bhaji to the mouth watering and hot vada pav  or wolf down the Delhi chaats of alu tikkis , dah wada and golgappas. On public demand they have now started Cheesy pastas and pizzas and even the paneer and muchroom kebabs are scrumptious.

The scene outside is like a mela with merry go rounds and giant wheels and toy sellers selling dolls , guns , toy phones and musical pianos , guitars and hand made bow and arrows etc. The kids love to shop here and the adults like to hog on the food. What fun.


With sleepy eyes, a happy heart and a smile on your face you can then trudge back to your cozy home well past mid night and plop in your bed with a secured mind that for the next ten days Lord Ganesha himself has come down on this earth to bring happiness among his devotees and drive away all the obstacles in their lives.

Ganpati Bappa Morya…….


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